SF: The Mission District

Nothing compares to the Mission. It’s hispanic roots, socially-minded population and colorful lineup of businesses make it the most unique district in San Francisco. It may be just miles from the high rises of downtown and luxury apartments of Mission Bay but you’ll feel worlds apart in this neighborhood on the edge.

The district gets its name from California’s 6th mission, San Francisco de Asis (or Mission Dolores). It was founded in 1776, making it San Francisco’s oldest structure. It’s on the corner of 16th and Dolores Street and has a historic cemetery, a rare find in the city. After the Gold Rush, the area was subdivided and largely populated by working-class German, Irish and Italian immigrants. In the mid 20th century there was an influx of immigrants from Mexico and Central America and the Mission started to become the vibrant, fun, diverse neighborhood people know today. It was a place for the LGBTQ community in the 70s and the punk rock scene into the 80s.

The Mission has a history of welcoming diverse residents and visitors but it’s also no stranger to gentrification. In recent decades, it went from an up-and-coming neighborhood to the trendy place to live. Highway 101 borders the neighborhood on the east, making it an easy commute to Silicon Valley. Young, high-tech workers are moving in and driving up prices. Clashes between locals and newcomers sometimes make headlines like frequent protests of Google buses. It’s become extremely expensive to live here and there is limited inventory to buy. There are still plenty of old buildings and Victorian houses but more and more projects aim to build apartments and condos, including recent efforts to make affordable housing a priority.

The contrast between Valencia Street and Mission Street is the perfect example of what’s currently going on in the Mission. From one block to the next, you are in completely different environments. Valencia is as hipster as it gets and Mission is 99-cent stores and nondescript (yet often delicious) restaurants. Head down some of the side streets and you’ll feel like you’re in Mexico. Walk down others and find some of the most talked about restaurants in San Francisco. You’ll get a sense of what’s going on in the world just by looking at the murals, particularly on Balmy Alley, Clarion Alley and the Women's Building. You’ll find whatever is happening in America—whatever the social issues are—painted on buildings, posted at coffee shops and protested from street corners.

Whether it’s traditional or trendy, the food in the Mission is unbelievable, and people come for it. Be prepared to wait in long lines and make reservations or get turned away. The Mexican food is arguably the best you can find outside of Mexico. Restaurants like La Taqueria are world-renowned for their burritos. They made headlines in 2018 when locals feared it would close due to an inheritance dispute that ended with the owner buying the building for $1.7 million (the family originally bought it for $39,000 in 1972). You’re also going to find an endless supply of inventive restaurants. Foreign Cinema screens movies on their outdoor patio, Tartine is the best bakery in San Francisco, Loló is a modern take on Mexican (get the guacamole) and Flour + Water is the place for seasonal handmade pastas and pizzas.

It’s not just the sit-down restaurants that add to the uniqueness of the Mission District. It’s really all the diverse businesses. You’re not going to see a Starbucks on every corner like the rest of the city. There are very few chain stores. You’re going to see hipster barber shops, artisan coffee (try Ritual or Four Barrel) and locally-owned stores with a following like small-batch Dandelion Chocolate and Dogeared Books. You’re also going to see a man on the corner selling watermelons out of his truck, and I can attest that is some of the best watermelon you can get.

There are two BART stops along Mission Street, making it an extremely quick commute for anyone headed into work Downtown or the Financial District. Many residents rely on public transportation to get around because parking is a huge issue in the Mission. It tends to be sunnier here and stays insulated from the fog and wind that affects other SF neighborhoods. One of the best ways to experience a sunny day is at Dolores Park which underwent a $20.5 million renovation. When the sun comes out, that park is packed with thousands of San Franciscans picnicking and people watching. Get a spot on the grassy hill for views of downtown.

Perhaps the most unique property is across the street from Dolores Park: The Lighthouse is a century-old church that has been converted into a four-unit luxury townhouse. Or the San Francisco Armory, a 200,000 square foot Moorish castle which was converted to a studio for porn films. There is certainly no shortage of one-of-a-kind finds here.

Bonus: Mission Dolores

Photo by: Koushik Chowdavarapu on Unsplash

This is a subsection of the Mission District and a big part of San Francisco history. A lot of the Mission is flat but here you’ll find more hills, views and large Victorian homes. As you may have guessed by the name, It is where you’ll also find Mission Dolores, founded in 1776. It is San Francisco’s oldest neighborhood and became even more integral to the city during the Gold Rush when plank roads were put in connecting it to the area that is now Downtown. It became a place to go to for entertainment with saloons, gambling and racetracks.

You’ll find San Francisco’s most famous fire hydrant in the southwest corner of Dolores Park. After the 1906 earthquake, fires sprung up around the city. Many fire hydrants would not work but this one did, and is credited with saving the Mission District. It is repainted gold each year on April 18th, the anniversary of the big earthquake. Today, the area continues to be an epicenter of culture and action with the Castro to the west, hipster Valencia Street within its eastern border and popular Dolores Park is in the southernmost corner.